kissing elephants

Dozing in Long Island 29 Aug

After yesterday's adventure, I had a lazy day at the Long Island resort which is right on the beach. Sunbathing and massage was as energetic as I got. The masseur told me she got a vibe from me that I was going to go into alternative therapies so that's my new career sorted. She also told me I might have one leg shorter than the other. Thanks.

There's a huge yacht in the bay. Rumour is its Ivana Trump's. The paparazzi have just arrived.

Time to say goodbye to Queensland and Connections. Thank you, it's been a riot.

Sailing in the Whitsundays 28 Aug

Well my adventure reached its peak today. I had as much excitement as you can have with your clothes on. Except I had to take most of them off as they were saturated. What I thought would be a sedate day out on the sea, sunbathing on the deck of an 80ft racing yacht called Ragamuffin, turned out to be an mad ride through the high seas on 3 metre high swells.

I should have realised the night before when I met 'Skipper Dan' (yes, he really introduced himself that way) who charters boats round the islands. He said he wouldn't dream of taking his boats out the next day as the seas were much too rough. Having passed on this information to the others, everyone had nightmares about capsizing.

But brave little travellers that we are we were not put off and set out to meet the boat. The first adventure was just getting to it in what seemed like a pretty small dinghy. I took my rucksack off so it wouldn't weigh me down if I went overboard. But we made it.

What hadn't really sunk in was as a racing yacht you have to sit on one side with your legs dangling over the edge as it tips up on its side picking up speed. Apparently, they can get the sail to touch the water if they want! My arms were killing at the end of the day from clinging on. We also thought we were very clever by sitting up front not noticing that the crew were all giggling and retreating to the back of the boat as the waves grew larger heading out to open sea.

If you can imagine being on a rollercoaster for over an hour with someone throwing barrels (not buckets) of water in your face it was something like that. Oh it was all very funny to start with, girly screaming and giggling, but after the twentieth wave through its load over us, with such strength that it hurt your legs, we were beginning to get a bit fed-up. Then it started to rain. While the sea felt warm on your skin, the torrential rain was freezing.

The 'washing machine' that was the sea kept churning until we reached Whitehaven Beach, a pristine long white beach which would be lovely in the sun. Unfortunately, it avoided us so we couldn't get dry. Then half an hour later, we set out again, me minus my trousers this time and determined to sit at the back even if it meant throwing the Ozzie olders overboard. It was a more sedate journey although the waves were still as high as your head and your feet would regularly dip into the churning sea.

But despite the drenching I had the time of my life. I loved it. The sea is such an amazing force to ride it like that was fantastic. I loved sailing and would do it all over again but hopefully on a day of sunshine. At the end of it all I saw my reflection and laughed my head off - i was the wild woman of the woods. How far I've come.

Capricorn Caves 26 Aug

Onward again up to Capricorn caves via Gin Gin (great name) and Rockhampton. Staying in a really nice place in the woods and had a night tour of the caves this evening.

Capricorn Caves are impressive limestone structures which are mainly above ground - some of the cave roofs have collapsed to let the starry sky peek through and despite being fairly dry, the cave decorations are beautiful. The owners have lit them really well and the tour guide was great. The main cave is called the cathedral and has been set up for weddings and other dos - it would be an amazing place to get wed. When you're in there they light candles and play music so you can hear the acoustics. Without being over the top and hippie-like, it was a spiritual experience. I was in tears and most of the others were pretty wobbly.

In the morning, we were treated to very tame wild kangaroos for breakfast. They put on a good show of eating, fighting, sleeping and looking after the kids - an everyday happy family. Did you know that they growl?

And talking of growling, the group are becoming increasingly Big Brother like... all polite and smiles to start with, but now forming cliques and bitching lots. But its all part of the fun and they're all nice people really. Special mention to Louise and Kath who are fearless, incessantly positive eighteen year olds having a whale of a time. If I'd have known about this sort of thing at their age, I'd have done nothing else.

Fraser Island 25 Aug

Set out early today on a four wheel drive tour of the island. That sounds like a jeep safari doesn't it, but it's actually a 30 seater 4x4 bus so not quite so adventurous. We set out onto the striking 80 mile beach which is also the main highway and landing strip. It was very exhilarating to be driving in and out of the waves avoiding creeks and holes and other traffic. After getting stuck in soft sand along with most other vehicles, we saw the champagne pools, a bunch of frothy rock pools really, and the Indian head, a steep cliff which drops away to the ocean, one of the many places where the English killed loads of Aborigines. We also stopped at the shipwreck, the Maheno, a liner which was beached there in 1935, its mangled columns slowly rusting away in the waves. In the afternoon we walked to Lake Wabby, a dark green pool banked by steep desert sands.

Most of the group have been disappointed by Fraser Island but I have to say that despite the grotty, mouldy accommodation and overpriced, badly organised tour, it is a beautiful spectacle unlike anything I'm likely to see ever again.

Fraser Island 24 Aug

From the rainforest to the largest sand island in the world surrounded by shark-infested waters. We drove a long way today through a non-descript Brisbane and stopping at a pub with no right angles.

Fraser Island has a prehistoric feel to it. There are no roads here just sand tracks, huge rolling dunes rainforests and lakes. Today we visited Lake Birrabeen, a large freshwater lake surrounded by amazingly soft sand with spherical grains - a very good exfoliator. But the most beautiful thing I saw today was a huge blood red sun setting. I've never seen one like it. Apparently, its caused by the sugar beet being burnt to produce Bundaberg rum.

Anyway, off to the bar to meet the scary prehistoric locals

Springbrook and Lamington 22 - 23 Aug

Left Byron this morning and headed inland to Springbrook National Park for a rainforest trek. Not really sure what consitutes a rainforest, a forest or a jungle but apparently Springbrook and Lamington are sub-tropical rainforests. I think its something to do with the percentage of sky cover you get.

We met Andy, our excitable tour guide from Brisbane who fancied himself as a bit of a Ray Mears. After waiting for him to have a swim and ice coffee we set out in the back of a 4x4 feeling very adventurous. He took us to the Natural Arch first, a steep stream which has eroded a hole in the river bed to create a waterfall into a cave. It was incredibly beautiful.

Next stop was Purlingbrook Falls, a walk down into a gorge where we spotted snakes, goannas and other such wildlife - very excited that I saw my first snake - a six foot carpet snake who was not that shy. Andy was making a promotional video for the company so kept leaping down steep drops to spot animals. We did ask him what the emergency telephone number is in Australia at one point.

The sight we encountered at the bottom of gorge was worth the walk. There was nothing better than standing underneath the waterfall with the sunlight shining through so you could make out every single droplet.

Unfortunately, the night was less fun. I wasn't prepared for how cold it gets out here and we were camping. I say camping - it was luxury really - proper beds in a big tent with floorboards. The most bizarre thing about it was that we all slept in the same room - including Andy. But I got to experience a possum sniffing my feet as we sat round the fire toasting marshmallows and the star-filled southern night sky.

The next day was a bit of a let down. Walks with little interest and a slightly pathetic flying fox where you fly down a rope - not the adventure hike the brochure said it would be. I would rather have a day in Surfers Paradise despite its skyrise blandness - all I want is a hot shower and warm bed!

Karaoke queen

I'm back. And what a fantastic adventure I've had. I can't believe how much I've seen in such a short space of time. I think I've travelled the equivalent of the height of Europe in ten days and been from rainforests to cities to beaches. The next few posts will be chronological stuff I've written during my trip and a new photo album.

But first I must have a snooze. I've had about three hours sleep after a drunken last night in the Whitsundays. The Long Island resort was sweet enough to put on a karaoke disco especially for my leaving do - at least I'm pretty sure it was all for me. I lost my karaoke cherry several times throughout the evening - from 'I Only Want To Be With You' to 'Man I Feel Like A Woman' - I was Pop Idol personified. Sweet singing, great moves - of course that wasn't me slurring and staggering round the stage. Fell down on the beach around 2am.

This is Carey our driver doing Summer of 69. Download careykaraoke.3gp

You wouldn't recognise me now. Over the last ten days I have been transformed. From urban threads to unwashed bikini chic, ceramically straightened locks to wild, unruly curls, white skin to windburned cheeks. I'd like to think I look like Susan Sarandon in Thelma and Louise but I fear its more a cross between Tom Hanks in Castaway and Dian Fossey (gorilla lady).

My Queensland quest

Back on the www with four days without mobile or internet - very liberating. So much to tell you all but it will have to wait until I get back to Sydney for the full low-down. Arrived in Airlie Beach on the way to Long Island having been to Springbrook and Lamington National Park (snakes, goannas and walking under waterfalls) Fraser Island (driving along the beach), Brisbane (for an hour), Surfers (briefly, didn't feel like stopping), and Capricorn Caves (beautiful caverns and loads of kangaroos). Can't believe I've only three days left - I'm loving, loving it!

Can't seem to get my email so will be in touch as soon as I can. Hope you're all doing fine.

Baking in Byron

So, off on my trip up the Queensland coast. After 12 hours of driving listening to terrible dance music and watching bad films, we arrived in Byron Bay. Had a slight mishap on the way when I thought I'd lost all my money and passports but phew, I found them. Byron is great - it has beaches, nightlife, lots of shops but the most important thing is it has whales! I saw four humpbacks today playing in the shallows near the coast (photos to come) plus a 'shoal' of dolphins (what is the right word?). I could go home now a happy bunny.

Living in a trash trailer park until tomorrow with 24 others. A few my age, a few eighteen year olds but mainly twenty somethings. I met Stella on the bus who has lived in Sheffield for the last twelve years but just moved to Leicester. Turns out she lived 100 yards away from me in Broomspring for five years and we have a mutual friend who used to tell her to come round and meet me. Odd how two people who should have known each other can be thrown together at a later date.

Last night the whole group went out on the town ending up at Cheeky Monkeys, a classy joint where the dancefloor is the tops of the tables. Might have to lose the crowd tonight and explore the rest of the town.

Byron has banned MacDonalds etc. from coming in and restricts the main shopping areas to local shops not chain stores - hoorah. As expected lots of hippies, therapies, crystals... and free internet. Plus young beautiful people everywhere. Off to the beach now.... ho hum.