kissing elephants

Fraser Island 25 Aug

Set out early today on a four wheel drive tour of the island. That sounds like a jeep safari doesn't it, but it's actually a 30 seater 4x4 bus so not quite so adventurous. We set out onto the striking 80 mile beach which is also the main highway and landing strip. It was very exhilarating to be driving in and out of the waves avoiding creeks and holes and other traffic. After getting stuck in soft sand along with most other vehicles, we saw the champagne pools, a bunch of frothy rock pools really, and the Indian head, a steep cliff which drops away to the ocean, one of the many places where the English killed loads of Aborigines. We also stopped at the shipwreck, the Maheno, a liner which was beached there in 1935, its mangled columns slowly rusting away in the waves. In the afternoon we walked to Lake Wabby, a dark green pool banked by steep desert sands.

Most of the group have been disappointed by Fraser Island but I have to say that despite the grotty, mouldy accommodation and overpriced, badly organised tour, it is a beautiful spectacle unlike anything I'm likely to see ever again.

Fraser Island 24 Aug

From the rainforest to the largest sand island in the world surrounded by shark-infested waters. We drove a long way today through a non-descript Brisbane and stopping at a pub with no right angles.

Fraser Island has a prehistoric feel to it. There are no roads here just sand tracks, huge rolling dunes rainforests and lakes. Today we visited Lake Birrabeen, a large freshwater lake surrounded by amazingly soft sand with spherical grains - a very good exfoliator. But the most beautiful thing I saw today was a huge blood red sun setting. I've never seen one like it. Apparently, its caused by the sugar beet being burnt to produce Bundaberg rum.

Anyway, off to the bar to meet the scary prehistoric locals

Springbrook and Lamington 22 - 23 Aug

Left Byron this morning and headed inland to Springbrook National Park for a rainforest trek. Not really sure what consitutes a rainforest, a forest or a jungle but apparently Springbrook and Lamington are sub-tropical rainforests. I think its something to do with the percentage of sky cover you get.

We met Andy, our excitable tour guide from Brisbane who fancied himself as a bit of a Ray Mears. After waiting for him to have a swim and ice coffee we set out in the back of a 4x4 feeling very adventurous. He took us to the Natural Arch first, a steep stream which has eroded a hole in the river bed to create a waterfall into a cave. It was incredibly beautiful.

Next stop was Purlingbrook Falls, a walk down into a gorge where we spotted snakes, goannas and other such wildlife - very excited that I saw my first snake - a six foot carpet snake who was not that shy. Andy was making a promotional video for the company so kept leaping down steep drops to spot animals. We did ask him what the emergency telephone number is in Australia at one point.

The sight we encountered at the bottom of gorge was worth the walk. There was nothing better than standing underneath the waterfall with the sunlight shining through so you could make out every single droplet.

Unfortunately, the night was less fun. I wasn't prepared for how cold it gets out here and we were camping. I say camping - it was luxury really - proper beds in a big tent with floorboards. The most bizarre thing about it was that we all slept in the same room - including Andy. But I got to experience a possum sniffing my feet as we sat round the fire toasting marshmallows and the star-filled southern night sky.

The next day was a bit of a let down. Walks with little interest and a slightly pathetic flying fox where you fly down a rope - not the adventure hike the brochure said it would be. I would rather have a day in Surfers Paradise despite its skyrise blandness - all I want is a hot shower and warm bed!

Karaoke queen

I'm back. And what a fantastic adventure I've had. I can't believe how much I've seen in such a short space of time. I think I've travelled the equivalent of the height of Europe in ten days and been from rainforests to cities to beaches. The next few posts will be chronological stuff I've written during my trip and a new photo album.

But first I must have a snooze. I've had about three hours sleep after a drunken last night in the Whitsundays. The Long Island resort was sweet enough to put on a karaoke disco especially for my leaving do - at least I'm pretty sure it was all for me. I lost my karaoke cherry several times throughout the evening - from 'I Only Want To Be With You' to 'Man I Feel Like A Woman' - I was Pop Idol personified. Sweet singing, great moves - of course that wasn't me slurring and staggering round the stage. Fell down on the beach around 2am.

This is Carey our driver doing Summer of 69. Download careykaraoke.3gp

You wouldn't recognise me now. Over the last ten days I have been transformed. From urban threads to unwashed bikini chic, ceramically straightened locks to wild, unruly curls, white skin to windburned cheeks. I'd like to think I look like Susan Sarandon in Thelma and Louise but I fear its more a cross between Tom Hanks in Castaway and Dian Fossey (gorilla lady).

My Queensland quest

Back on the www with four days without mobile or internet - very liberating. So much to tell you all but it will have to wait until I get back to Sydney for the full low-down. Arrived in Airlie Beach on the way to Long Island having been to Springbrook and Lamington National Park (snakes, goannas and walking under waterfalls) Fraser Island (driving along the beach), Brisbane (for an hour), Surfers (briefly, didn't feel like stopping), and Capricorn Caves (beautiful caverns and loads of kangaroos). Can't believe I've only three days left - I'm loving, loving it!

Can't seem to get my email so will be in touch as soon as I can. Hope you're all doing fine.

Baking in Byron

So, off on my trip up the Queensland coast. After 12 hours of driving listening to terrible dance music and watching bad films, we arrived in Byron Bay. Had a slight mishap on the way when I thought I'd lost all my money and passports but phew, I found them. Byron is great - it has beaches, nightlife, lots of shops but the most important thing is it has whales! I saw four humpbacks today playing in the shallows near the coast (photos to come) plus a 'shoal' of dolphins (what is the right word?). I could go home now a happy bunny.

Living in a trash trailer park until tomorrow with 24 others. A few my age, a few eighteen year olds but mainly twenty somethings. I met Stella on the bus who has lived in Sheffield for the last twelve years but just moved to Leicester. Turns out she lived 100 yards away from me in Broomspring for five years and we have a mutual friend who used to tell her to come round and meet me. Odd how two people who should have known each other can be thrown together at a later date.

Last night the whole group went out on the town ending up at Cheeky Monkeys, a classy joint where the dancefloor is the tops of the tables. Might have to lose the crowd tonight and explore the rest of the town.

Byron has banned MacDonalds etc. from coming in and restricts the main shopping areas to local shops not chain stores - hoorah. As expected lots of hippies, therapies, crystals... and free internet. Plus young beautiful people everywhere. Off to the beach now.... ho hum. 

White Noise

Couldn't leave without mentioning the exhibition that opened in Melbourne at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image that I went to. It was one of the most exciting arts events I've been to and nothing like I've ever experienced before. It features a group of digital artists (including Ernest) working with sound and image. Apart from E's work, naturally, I particularly like Ulf Langheinrich's unsettling movies which reminded me of how I felt watching Solaris and Peter Bosch/Simone Simons' use of water to create abstract images.

Download Ernest's absolute.AVI
Download peterbosch.AVI

The exhibition space was also very well done. Each work had its own black cavernous environment linked by a neon circled infinite corridor. Between each space an approximation of white noise was used to 'cleanse the palate' before moving onto the next artist. Very clever.

Mmmmelbourne

hello again, bet you thought I'd forgotten you. Of course not, I've been in Melbourne without my beloved internet. Melbourne is a nice city, I instantly felt at home there. Maybe it was the soothing rumble of the trams which reminded me of Sheffield or the colourful people reminding me of London. A new friend summed it up when they described it as more 'real' and less 'showy' than Sydney. The streets are wider, the skyscrapers less dominating and the myriad of early 20th century buildings makes the view ever changing. There's also some pretty terrible modern architecture too. Its a real mish mash of a city with obviously no planning ideals but somehow it works. Saw some of the best graffiti I've ever seen.

Also, discovered a fantastic tapas bar where they served the thickest hot chocolate with spanish doughnuts. Now I'm not a big chocolate person but this was amazing and if I never experience it again, it will be a tragedy.

If it looks from the photos as if I was drunk for most of my trip, that's because I was. Too many exhibition parties and socialising with people who like to talk until late. Suffering for it now but have to pull myself together for my 6am start to Queensland tomorrow - white beaches, rainforests and surf here I come. Zzzzzzzz.

Keeping an eye on you

Well friends, it's almost a month since I left and I'm about to start the next step of my adventure. But before I do, I want to find out what you've all been up to. So, I want you all to give me a summary of your life this month in no more than 20 words.

And that means all you peekers (I know who you are) can start posting. It's easy - just click on comments, put a name and email in (doesn't have to be your real one and you don't need a website url), type in the text box and click post. No excuses.

I'll start....

More books, bikes, birds, bed, buildings, buses, bridges, booze, bats, and blog - less brochures

Your turn...

All gone a bit arty

You really know you've made it when you get your name in nice font painted on a white wall in a gallery. Some of you may not know that my dad, as well as being artificial intelligence advisor to the stars and cameo actor in high quality Hollywood films, is also 'a ground-breaking interactive artist'. I went to his first exhibition opening in Sydney last night and was very proud. Did my best to understand it all but failed miserably. One very intense young man tried to explain what his technology research work was about and he lost me in the first sentence. From then on I just smiled sweetly and nodded until he got bored of me and pretended to need a drink.

Ernest shared his opening with a Saab sponsored arts event which consisted of cars parked in a building, jazz, a giant paella, copious flowing wine, cute penguin waiters and a little bit of art. All a bit surreal. The event organisers were worried people at Ernest's event would steal all their food and drink - which we did. Think I'm going to go out and buy a Saab now.